As the wee Loganair jet we boarded to Griminish started descending into Benbecula airport located near the MOD Hebrides (Congreve House) military facility, after 55 minutes from Glasgow, I could see a panoramic view of hills and valleys. Unlike Glasgow, which has tall buildings, the scenery was inundated with bungalows and a beautiful landscape with sheep and cattle grazing. Peter was on hand to welcome me to the Outer Hebrides. After sharing pleasantries, we set out to pick Canon Michael Hutson, my host, who had just returned from a diocesan function at Orban, South Uist. Peter offered to take me around. He promised that after Father goes on leave, he will take me to Eriskay. “I will take you to a historic place – Am Politician.” I obliged him. We arrived at the rectory at St. Mary’s Griminish in the company of the Vicar General of Argyll and the Isles. 5 days later, my chauffeur made good on his promise. He picked me up at the rectory bound for Eriskay.
Driving through the Uist Community School, backing the Atlantic Ocean, the journey was intriguing. The site of lochs along the single motor causeway built in 1935, which interestingly had the inscription, “passing place” after a Kilometre or two, with a beautiful array of white swans, was eye-catching and stunning. As an ardent Marian devotee, I recall the stunning view of Our Lady of the Isles, known in Gaelic as Bana Thighearna nan Eilean, erected in South Uist in response to the proposal by the Ministry of Defense to build a missile testing site in the 1950s. Although a missile testing facility was built, inspired by Father John Morrison, locals from North Uist, who are mostly Protestants, and South Uist, who are predominantly Catholic, united to commission the statue. I reflected that the Madonna remains a catalyst for ecumenism in the Outer Hebrides. After about a 30-minute drive, we arrived at this tranquil part of Scotland, decorated by scenic mountain paths and tracks.
From the one bridge causeway that incorporates the Uist chain’s spinal route, Peter pointed at the historic rocks off the north shore of the island where the ill-fated SS Politician, which left Liverpool for Kingston, Jamaica, and New Orleans, struck a rock on 5 February 1941, 3 days later. “This singular incident shot Eriskay into the limelight,” said he. As we detoured right downtown, Peter narrated that the cargo ship was carrying over thousands of bottles of Scotch whisky.
He detailed that the SS Politician story was written by Compton Mackenzie in his 1947 bestselling novel titled “Whisky Galore,” which was adapted into a film two years later under the same name by Ealing Comedy. According to him, “While growing up, my uncles and relations told us stories of how the rustic islanders looted tonnes of whisky bottles before the police and customs officers arrived for a cordon and search.” The politician added that because “many islanders were arrested and jailed for theft, many locals resorted to hiding the stuff under floorboards, on rooftops or wherever they deemed fit to evade the authorities.”
As I relished the story with rapt attention, we arrived at Am Politician – a fascinating pub and restaurant located towards the southern end of Eriskay’s main township, Am Baile, across the rocky northwest corner of the island. The stunning eatery and bar were named after the stricken vessel. The waiters were friendly as we shared pleasantries. My host seemed familiar with them. Coming from a busy city like Glasgow, where everyone appears too busy to say hello to anyone, the cheerful and welcoming gesture demonstrated by the waitresses says a lot about the Islanders. The experience resonated with the biblical wedding at Cana in Galilee, and I was hoping for a miracle – perhaps the best wine. Meanwhile, I remembered everyone waving at us or saying hello as we drove past. Peter confirmed to me that “people in the Isles have a strong sense of community, togetherness, and fellow feeling.” This resonated with my African culture, deeply rooted in communitarianism called Ubuntu or Ujama. Although we were in a pub, it seemed like a home away from home because of the warmth the staff and other visitors demonstrated.
Without much ado, my guest ushered me to the bar session. At Eriskay’s only pub, he pointed at the 83-year-old “Polly” whisky bottle with half of its content intact, standing beside a machete, a gun, and an old currency note persevered from the mishap. I was excited to see the artifacts. One of the waiters handed me a leaflet with notes printed from a typewriter that contained a synopsis of the ship that did not see the light of day. I learned that many years after the Second World War, the push-bikes plying South Uist and Eriskay came from the cargo.
While I was treated to charred steak, some green veggie, and a chill drink, my host settled for the traditional fish and chips. The locally sourced food was as tasty as the charming conservatory, which allowed us to appreciate the beautiful views from where we sat. Since it was lunchtime, other visitors as well as residents of North Uist and environs who were either travelling to Bara or Glasgow were on hand for lunch, to have a drink, or to use the toilet before they got to their ship. I learned that at weekends, music attracted members of the community and tourists like bees to the relaxation spot.
Between AM Politician and SS Politicianlies the past, the present, and the future. The relics recall the sad incident of the past amid a local community that shared the booty of a sea accident – the present is lived and celebrated by visitors like me who have the privilege to see and touch the past in a real manner – the future is to be seen in how those artifacts would be preserved for unborn generations.
Since May 2018, the pub is said to be run by business partners Angus MacAllister and the couple Julia and Stephen Campbell. As Peter took a photo of me outside the place, he indicated he had owned the facility before selling it. With that pleasant surprise, it is safe to say that although the mishap seems long forgotten, like the surviving bottle of “Polly,” the story lives in the memories and footprints of visitors, like this visiting African who relished a flavoursome Scottish steak at Am Politician. Although this historic trip to the Outer Hebrides took place between 13 Sept and 21 Oct 2024, for a long time, the thoughts of Our Lady of the Isles would resonate with this African priest who is passionate about devotion to Our Lady!
